Shoppers buy clothes ahead of Christmas in Eldoret town on December 24, 2024.
We approached a wide array of Kenyans with a simple question: “What are your plans for Christmas?”
The responses we got were a sharp picture of disparity. While some are considering lofty concepts such as brunches at exquisite hotels, expensive domestic flights and travel to exotic places others can only dream of basic needs such as a proper meal and maybe a little treat for their children.
Nairobi slums
For 35-year-old Doreen Karwira, a mama fua who earns an income by doing other people’s laundry, Sh6,000 is all she needs to make it a special day for her and her two sons.
She desires a good meal at home, a bouncing castle for her children, new clothes, and just maybe a visit to a nice restaurant.
However, for the single mother of two, that Sh6,000 budget sounds like a far-fetched dream. For her, Christmas is a bittersweet day. As the festive cheer sweeps through the city, it comes with the pressure of imagining everything she wishes she could give her children but can’t afford.
Her firstborn, James, 10, dreams of a new pair of sneakers and a soccer ball he can kick around at a local field. His younger brother, Sam, five, just wants to bounce high in a colourful castle, his small hands reaching for the sky. But in their cramped one-room home, where the roof leaks when it rains, Doreen can’t promise them any of those.
“I wish I could give them that, but how do I give them the Christmas they dream of when I’m just trying to make sure they have food to eat? It’s just like another day,” she said. “I have nothing planned for them. It hurts to see them happy with so little.”
“I can only hope that one day, I can give them more,” added Ms Karwira.
Ms Jemimah Mukitanga, a mother of two who is also a mama fua, feels like Christmas has lost its spark.
Life’s hardships have forced her to make the painful decision of sending one of her children to live with her parents, hoping they could provide what she couldn’t.
“I have no plans for Christmas. That day itself gives me nightmares because I want to give my children what other children are having. But I don’t have it, and I hope they understand. For me, it’s just like any other day—no plans, nothing. But I do want to go to church, to find some peace, even if it’s just for a moment. Maybe I can find a little hope there,” she said.
“I wash clothes for people, and I earn a living there. Lately, I am seeing Christmas trees in the homes of the people I do laundry for, and sometimes I wish it could be me and my daughters. But where is the money to do all that? However, as long as they are healthy, I thank God,” she said.
Ms Mukitanga says if she gets Sh15,000, it can transform her life. She would invest Sh6,000 in a vegetable stall. Another Sh3,000 would cover basic shopping to keep her family fed during the festive season. She will set aside Sh2,500 for clothes and shoes for her children, ensuring they feel special. Another Sh2,500 would go towards school items such as uniforms and books, while Sh1,000 would cover transport and unexpected expenses.
Uptown Nairobi
In every other shopping mall, lights flicker in festive gaiety. Larger-than-life Christmas trees are the order of the day as carols waft through the air while trolleys are laden with tonnes of products. All this is because the well-to-do in the city are all about exchanging gifts, indulging in fine dining, having family vacations and generally making merry.
The well-off also love travelling, and this manifests itself in the bookings that had been made ahead of Christmas.
Mr Nicanor Sabula, CEO of the Kenya Association of Travel, said that in the two months to Christmas, there was an increase in bookings to various destinations.
“The past two months have seen a surge in bookings for holidays to destinations in Asia, including Malaysia, Singapore, and Thailand. Improved connectivity to the Far East has made these regions increasingly attractive to Kenyan travellers. Many young professionals, especially those in the middle class and the affluent, are driving this trend, leveraging affordable flight options and accommodation solutions like Airbnb to explore international destinations,” he said.
The cost of a holiday in Asia, particularly in Singapore, varies depending on the traveller’s preferences and style. For a budget trip, one can expect to spend between Sh150,000 and Sh250,000, which would cover basic accommodation, local meals, and public transportation. A mid-range trip would cost between Sh250,000 and Sh500,000, offering a more comfortable stay with higher-end meals and additional activities.
For a luxury trip, the budget can range from Sh500,000 to over Sh1 million, which includes staying in high-end hotels, dining at upscale restaurants, and enjoying premium experiences and services. The total cost will ultimately depend on the type of experience and level of comfort sought.
South Africa, Dubai and Uganda, he said, are other places of interest for Kenyans. Data from Mckinsey & Company on the state of tourism and hospitality 2024 indicates that Kenyan travellers are increasingly venturing abroad, contributing to the global outbound tourism market.
At home, the Kenyan coast continues to be a major attraction, with destinations such as Diani and the South Coast witnessing high traffic. The standard gauge railway (SGR), which has enhanced accessibility to the coast, has sold out even its premium tickets.
“The SGR has become a big draw, offering comfort and convenience for travellers heading to the Coast. Right now, you cannot even find flights to Mombasa because they are booked. The Coast remains a key attraction, and many are going to enjoy the holidays with their families there,” said Mr Sabula.
Short-term bookings to Naivasha and the Aberdares have also increased, catering to travellers seeking getaways near the capital.
The contrasting fortunes of Kenyans could also be seen in the travel arrangements. At Country Bus, Nairobi, where travellers to various parts of Kenya commute using low-budget travel firms, there has been a steady flow of human traffic since mid-December.
On the other hand, some Kenyans have chosen to go by air. Flights from Nairobi to Mombasa, Kisumu and Eldoret were fully booked by the weekend preceding Christmas, despite a rise in prices. A Jambojet flight to Kisumu that ordinarily costs around Sh8,000 had jumped to more than Sh19,000, but this did not deter eager passengers.
Hotel bookings were also a show of the affluent going all the way.
Ms Ivy Irungu, the public relations and marketing manager at Novotel Hotel in Nairobi’s Westlands, told Nation.Africa that bookings for their Christmas brunch were picking up, with 20 to 40 per cent of the available slots reserved more than a week to Christmas.
“We are witnessing strong interest from families, often groups of four to six, who are drawn to the festive experiences we create. Our focus is on selling meaningful moments and crafting offers that foster an emotional and sentimental connection with both our brand and the hotel, ensuring the day becomes a cherished memory for them,” she said.
Mr Randy Ngala, public relations and marketing manager at Mövenpick Nairobi, said while the hotel had received numerous inquiries and reservation requests for its Christmas brunches, many guests tend to finalise bookings in the final week.
“We’ve had very many requests for reservations. For New Year’s Eve, we are already about 70 per cent booked and expect the remaining 30 per cent to fill up soon,” he said. “The majority of bookings are from families, typically in groups of four to six people, coming together to share a meal and celebrate the holidays.”
The different approaches to Christmas also exhibit themselves on social media. While some are posting about the financial difficulties they find themselves in, going as far as seeking assistance, others are living large.
On TikTok, there are hashtags like #ComeWithMeToDubai or #ComeWithMeAndMyFamilyToMasaiMara. Videos shared via those hashtags show the grandeur of holiday getaways, private safaris, and lavish celebrations. While these moments are filled with happiness.
“This year, we’re visiting the Maasai Mara for a three-day Christmas safari since my younger brothers haven’t experienced it yet. Last year, we travelled to Singapore, so my dad thought it would be fun to explore something different this time. Our family has a calendar where we plan holiday trips, creating a special Christmas tradition we all look forward to,” said Latiffah Wanjiru.
Additional reporting by Elvis Ondieki
