The art of looking beautiful now billion-shilling industry

The news anchor openly expresses her love for make-up, which she has been using since she was at university in 2014.

“I started using the full face beat make-up in 2017 when I entered into the mainstream media. It is hard for me to say I can go a day without eyebrow pencil, eyeliner and lashes -- those are the go-to for me. I actually feel naked when I am not wearing these three essentials,” Ms Mwaka says, explaining that she spends about Sh50,000 on make-up every year.

This figure is replicated thousands of times in Kenya, as women, and some men, spare no expense to look their best. Many will not spend such a colossal amount of money on make-up, but whatever the amount spent, make-up is flying off the shelves.

The rising number of make-up lovers in Kenya has birthed a generation of professional make-up artists that ensure both men and women look their absolute best.

For the past eight years, Ms Judith Chebet has been a make-up artist, witnessing the growth of an industry that is rapidly overtaking sectors that were previously key in the economy, to earn Kenya billions of shillings yearly, and in the process, creating thousands of new jobs.

Long gone are the days when women simply drew lines where their eyebrows would be, and applied baby powder to their faces, henna on their nails and fried their hair with hot combs to straighten it.

Today, the make-up and colour cosmetics industry in Kenya has come of age, boasting the latest global trends. Some customers are spending their last coin in the quest for beauty, as entrepreneurs who have grabbed the opportunity make serious money.

At almost every shopping centre in the country today, there is an outlet selling make-up and beauty products.

“There is a big difference between when I started this career and now. In the beginning, it was something new for the people, there was no way someone was going to pay you to apply make-up on them, but with time, people have warmed up to it,” Ms Chebet says.

The growth of the industry has also boosted others -- from photo shoots to themed parties, as Kenyans embrace the art of make-up – and there are schools where one can be trained.

Today, it is almost a crime to plan for a birthday party, a wedding or any other celebration without including a budget for make-up.

Buying make-up can be a costly affair. Make-up prices differ according to the brand. On the higher end for local brands are Joana cosmetics, Joana K cosmetics and Suzie Beauty. Joana’s lipsticks cost between Sh1,600 and Sh2,900, while Suzie Beauty’s go for between Sh100 and Sh2,000. More affordable is Signature lipstick, ranging from Sh50-to Sh100, while Huddah lipstick ranges from Sh499 to Sh999, whereas for international brands like Maybelline, lipstick costs Sh800-1,000, while Mac lipsticks range from Sh2,700 to Sh3,400.

One of the best sellers in beauty shops is foundation, which is on high demand by both women and men. The most affordable ones that can be used only for two weeks, cost Sh100 to Sh150, however at Suzie Beauty, they range from Sh1,700 to Sh2,500. For the international brands such as Maybelline, foundation sells at Sh800 to Sh1,500, while Mac foundation prices range from Sh4,500 to Sh5,700.

The eye shadow palette costs 150 in any local shop, compared to the known brands like Joana palette and Huddah mini palettes which the price ranges from Sh1,890 – Sh2,900.

Fake eyelash prices range from Sh100-2,500 on the lower end, while mink lashes cost between

Sh3,500 and Sh27,100.

An economic survey done by the Kenya National Bureau of Statistics (KNBS) has shown that between 2012 and 2016, the market value of the make-up industry increased from Sh15 billion to Sh19 billion -- an increase of Sh4 billion.

From 2016 to 2019, the increase in market value was Sh4.8 billion, to Sh24 billion.

However, when the Covid-19 pandemic hit in March 2020, cosmetics registered a moderate de-escalation in retail volume sales, going down to Sh21 billion.

The year also recorded the least quantity that was imported -- 73,134 tonnes, after the government imposed Covid-19 regulations.

According to London-based market researcher Euro Monitor, beauty in Kenya is a Sh58 billion industry that provides a livelihood for hundreds of thousands of people, from beauticians to manufacturers.

Multinational cosmetics companies have also come for a slice of the pie in Kenya, opening up franchises and competing with local brands.

Ms Chebet confirms that the make-up business is a big investment.

“The make-up kit alone took me a while to build. For good brands for a professional make-up kit, you can get it at Sh200,000, and you don’t want to get the counterfeited products that will mess up your client’s skin,” she says.

The Kenya Bureau of Standards (Kebs) checks the safety of cosmetics. The standard developed covers innovations in the cosmetics industry, to ensure the quality of products and that the safety of the consumer is prioritised by adherence to good manufacturing practices during sourcing of raw materials, preparation and eventual production of branded cosmetics products destined for the Kenyan market.

The director of Deeva Beauty College in Bungoma, Ms Violet Mureka, says investing in the beauty industry is the best decision she ever made. It is now easier to access beauty products because many Kenyans are coming up with their own brands, which makes business easier than importing products from outside the country, she says.

“There is competition in the market, and like any other industry, there must be losses, but I have made more profit. People are embracing make-up now and that’s a good thing for us. If I compare years back and now, people have warmed up to it. I sell high end products from Kenya and also from outside the country,” Ms Mureka says.

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