Tourists brave virus scare to watch wildebeest migration

For the first time in many decades, the world-famous wildebeest migration from Serengeti in Tanzania to Maasai Mara Game Reserve is a low-key event due to the Covid-19 pandemic.

The migration kicked off on Friday last week, with a handful of international tourists who usually make full bookings at the camps and lodges during the peak season witnessing the event. “We are also banking on locals to witness the wildebeest migration as the effects of the disease continue to take a toll on the sector,” noted Kekorok lodge manager James ole Pere.

In the past five days, more than two million gnus have been migrating to the savanna for greener pasture. The stocky ox-like African antelope has a drooping mane and beard, a long tufted tail and curved horn.

This season has come and would certainly end without the traditional thousands of prying human eyes.

A survey at the game reserve by the Nation showed bushes have taken over what used to be game-viewing roads as well as at lodges and camps.

Temporary tents, which operate during peak seasons, are missing, all thanks to the low business volume.

An award-winning wildlife photographer cum tour guide, Mr Antony ole Tira, said the yearly migration begins in the south of the Serengeti, after more than half a million calves are born between January and March.

But when the rains end in May or June, Mr Tira said the land dries fast and the grazers move on, heading for their dry season refuge in the Mara, where the wild ecstasy continues for three months before they troop back.

“Now they have been entering the Mara. The animals will be heading northwards towards River Talek, where they graze and mate. From July to October, the wildebeest move between the western and eastern sides of Mara River, crossing crocodile-invested rivers at different points almost daily, which is the biggest attraction to tourist,” said Mr Tira.

The widely anticipated spectacle delayed for several weeks compared to last year's crossing, when the animals started their journey into Kenya from June 1.

Wildlife lovers attributed the delay to the prolonged rainy season that kept pastures in Tanzania’s northern Serengeti greener for longer.

This has also been attributed to fires suspected to have been started by authorities in Serengeti along the paths taken by the migrating wildebeests.

But as the wild phenomenon lights up the Mara, hotels, lodges and tented camps are reopening amidst uncertainty on whether guests will come calling, against  the backdrop of surging operational costs occasioned by new travel protocols.

The Magical Kenya Tourism Health and Safety Protocols stipulate that services must meet the World Health Organization’s and Kenya’s Ministry of Health measures aimed at preventing the spread of Covid-19.

Employees of the tourist facilities trooped back to their respective lodges and tented camps last week and underwent the mandatory coronavirus tests, which were done by medics from the Nairobi West Hospital.

The reopening comes four months after tourism facilities at the game reserve closed doors soon after the first case of Covid-19 was reported in the country. So far, 15 facilities out of 230 have received the greenlight to operate.

So far, the establishments are banking on local tourism, but are hopeful that business will stabilise with international passenger flights resuming on August 1.

The epic migration enters its sixth day today, with only a handful of photographers, tour guides and few domestic tourists flocking the Sand river banks to witness what some global media have dubbed the “seventh new wonder of the world”.

Among those who watched the migration on Wednesday was Ms Sandra Raussens from Shimoni in Kilifi County. She expressed fear over the rising cases of Covid-19 infections.

Ms Raussens, who runs a school for girls on the Coast, said she travelled with six friends to witness the migration for the first time.

“This is the first time I have watched the wildebeest migration, it’s breath-taking, but we are just the few of us here. Hakuna wageni (there are no visitors),” she said amid interruptions of the wildebeests jumping into the river.

Their coming is a shot in the arm for camps that are also ready to host local tourists to stay afloat.

The owner of Nairobi Ceos Timpers, a dairy company, said it was time Kenyans stand up for tourism to save the economy.

“It is time locals saved domestic tourism since many people moved out and back to their countries. We can support the local camps and tour operators by coming here,” said Mr Timpers, the CEO of the firm, who was in Matira camp with his family for three nights.

Mr Timpers, a Swiss national, said they were in Maji Moto last week in an ecolodge, where they enjoyed the Maasai culture in efforts to promote local tourism.

Mr Johnstone Ndegwa, who lives in Thika and is the proprietor of Dillons Hotel in Ngoliba, was also in the Maasai Mara. He also called on Kenyans to embrace local tourism.

“I don’t mind touring local tourist destinations in the spirit of patriotism and helping our brothers and sisters in the sector cope with this pandemic,” said Mr Ndegwa, who urged Kenyans to use this time when the Maasai Mara is not congested to watch wildlife.

Olare Mara Kempensiki luxury camp’s Fairman Muhingi said they closed before the Easter holidays when foreign arrivals were still on, leading to heavy losses.

“The closure was sudden and haphazard. Those who had booked for Easter weekend in April were forced to cancel,” said Mr Muhingi, who is also a leader with the Mara Serengeti ecosystem hoteliers’ forum.

Mr Muhingi said Kempinski reopened its Olare Mara camp on Wednesday, targeting domestic travellers ahead of the resumption of international flights.

Mr George ole Kuluo, the manager of Fig Tree Mara bush camp, a branch of the Mada chain of hotels, said charges for Covid-19 tests were high, claiming that the ministry should give hoteliers a discount for bulk testing.

“We expect business to start picking up by mid next month when the airspace is reopened. Most high-end facilities have started receiving bookings albeit in small numbers,” said Mr Kuluo.

Facilities are required to have valid Covid-19 certification that is not more than 14 days old and from a recognised government-approved facility.