As the first light of dawn peeps through the walls of Pipeline estate, a high-density population estate in Nairobi, Josephine Mumbi, a mother of two, faces a daily ordeal.
Every morning when she opens her door, a wave of intense, overwhelming stench hits her nostrils — and dances in, refusing to leave.
The source of this unbearable smell is not far from her doorstep. Just a stone's throw away lies an unpaved street, where discarded waste and makeshift dumps have become a fixture of the community.
The overpowering stench from these heaps mingles with the dust and grime of the streets, creating a toxic blend that seeps into every corner of her tiny home.
Josephine Mwende, a resident of Pipeline estate in Nairobi County in this picture taken on August 13, 2024.
Photo credit: Lucy Wanjiru | Nation Media Group
Their once bright and cheerful home has been overshadowed by a harsh reality — dirt, sewage, and garbage waste woven themselves into the fabric of their daily lives.
Ms Mumbi remembers her children’s joy in playing outside, chasing each other through the narrow spaces between buildings, their laughter filling the air.
But now, those innocent moments are overshadowed by a suffocating stench that taints every breath they take.
The unbearable smell has forced them indoors, where the walls of their small apartment now echo with their muted voices and restless energy.
Nairobi River, the city's garbage dumpsite
“My children can’t even go outside to play peacefully because of the overpowering stench. It’s heart-wrenching to see them fall ill so often. They love playing outside but as a parent you are forced to let them play in the house instead of risking,” a dejected Ms Mumbi says.
For the mother of two, every day is a game of hide and seek, navigating the stench that clings to her clothes and her spirit.
She fights to maintain a semblance of normalcy, meticulously cleaning her apartment in a futile attempt to erase the pervasive odour.
Despite her efforts, the smell infiltrates every crevice, a constant and unwelcome companion.
Residents and vendors go about their businesses on a street full of garbage in Pipeline estate, Nairobi County in this picture taken on August 13, 2024.
Photo credit: Lucy Wanjiru | Nation Media Group
“It's frustrating and embarrassing to admit that I live in Nairobi due to the widespread garbage and uncontrollable odours. As a businesswoman who owns a grocery and green vegetables sales stand (kibanda) the persistent smell is affecting my business. I’m losing customers because of it,” Ms Mumbi says.
According to the Nairobi City county government, the original drainage system in Nairobi was designed for a population of fewer than 500,000.
However, with the city's population now surging to nearly five million, this outdated system is struggling to cope.
The rapid transformation of Nairobi's landscape, combined with authorities' apparent disregard for illegal construction, has only made the situation worse.
A recent spot check by the Nation across various parts of the capital city revealed alarming conditions in areas such as Outering Road, Pipeline, Roysambu, Zimmerman, Kasarani, Rongai, and Dandora. In these neighborhoods, residents are faced with dirty water flooding the streets especially when it rains, foul odors emanating from overflowing sewage, and poorly maintained drainage systems that exacerbate the problem.
“Wait until it rains — you’ll see much more sewage spilling over. The stench becomes unbearable, so overpowering that we have to keep the windows of our homes shut at all times, even when the heat inside becomes stifling. The air outside is so foul that it seeps through the smallest cracks, making it impossible to escape the smell. It's as if the entire neighborhood is drowning in filth,” said Micheal Kamau, a resident at Zimmerman.
The daily scene of garbage-strewn streets and overflowing bins has become all too common in Nairobi.
Waste management in the city is split between Nairobi City County and various private contractors, yet the efficiency of garbage collection remains inconsistent.
High-density neighbourhoods and informal settlements are often the hardest hit, with uncollected waste piling up in the open.
The Dandora landfill, Nairobi’s primary waste disposal site, represents the city’s waste management challenges.
Originally designed for limited capacity, it now operates far beyond its intended limits, releasing toxic gases and leachate that pose serious health risks to nearby communities. The environmental impact is clear: contaminated air and water, along with towering heaps of refuse, highlight the urgent need for reform.
On our way to Dandora Phase 4, we were hit by a stench so strong it seemed to cling to the air, growing more overpowering with every step closer to the landfill.
The smell, a mix of rotting waste and burning plastic, assaulted our senses, a grim reminder of the environmental toll this place takes on those living nearby.
Children walk past garbage on a street in Pipeline estate, Nairobi County in this picture taken on August 13, 2024.
Photo credit: Lucy Wanjiru | Nation Media Group
As we arrived at the homestead Joyce Mwaniki, a mother of four, the sight was overwhelming.
Homes constructed from uneven iron sheets and other makeshift materials stood resilient amidst the harsh conditions.
The air was thick with the constant haze from smoldering waste, and the ground, littered with debris, felt unstable underfoot.
The noise of trucks hauling waste, the buzz of flies, and the scurry of rodents are all part of daily life. Water sources are often contaminated, and the risk of diseases looms large, with residents battling respiratory issues and other health problems linked to the toxic environment.
“Every day here is a fight for breath and survival. The air we breathe is poison, the ground beneath us a graveyard of waste. But this is our home, and somehow, we find the strength to keep going, even when it feels like the world has forgotten us. Living near Dandora landfill is a constant struggle, yet it also speaks to the strength and endurance of those who call this place home,” says Ms Mwaniki.
Whenever it rains in Nairobi, as it has over the past few days and weeks, the city’s most troubling issues come to light.
Even a few inches of rainfall can overwhelm the already inadequate drainage system, leaving residents frustrated and literally wading through floods.
The city’s infrastructure, which is already under immense pressure, simply cannot keep up with the demands of its growing population.
For years, concerns have been raised about why Nairobi consistently turns into pools of stagnant water whenever it rains.
In the central business district, most streets often become impassable, forcing pedestrians to rely on cart pushers who capitalize on the situation by ferrying people and their luggage across the flooded roads.
Nairobi City County Water and Sanitation Chief Officer Oscar Omoke noted that while sewer connectivity in Nairobi is at 55 percent, there is still a large portion of the population relying on alternatives like portable toilets, particularly in slum areas.
“We acknowledge that sewer connectivity in Nairobi is currently at 55 percent, meaning 45 percent of the areas remain without proper sewage systems. In slum areas, this gap is being addressed by the use of portable toilets,” said Mr Omoke.
The Nairobi City County official emphasized that land ownership is a critical issue to consider when addressing drainage and sewer infrastructure challenges.
“Before proceeding, it is essential to consider land ownership, as many of these areas, such as Mukuru and Southlands, are on private property. Installing drainage or sewer lines cannot begin on someone else's land without proper authorization," says Mr Omoke.
He pointed out that in areas like Kilimani, the rapid development of high-rise buildings has not been matched with the necessary expansion of sewer systems.
"We know there are problems in Kilimani, and it's largely due to the surge in high-rise constructions without corresponding infrastructure expansion," he noted.
