The price of beauty: What chemicals are in your hair products?
Most hair products sold in Kenya have zero per cent compliance with Kebs standards
It takes effort to look good by society's standards. Effort and money. This is why the beauty and personal care industry is a boon to investors.
But have you ever considered the health impacts of the products you use? Do you check if they are certified and contain chemicals safe for your body?
At the Kemri Annual Scientific and Health (Kash) Conference last week, a symposium on Environmental Exposures and Women's Health in Kenya revealed unsettling findings about personal care products.
Researchers spoke to more than 700 women and asked whether they had used any hair products in the two weeks before the survey. They also asked about preferred brands, narrowing down to 22 common hair products.
The scientists purchased these products from supermarkets and beauty shops in Embu and Nakuru counties, then analysed them in a laboratory. The results, published in the journal Frontiers in Public Health, showed that the products contain chemicals of concern and metals linked to adverse health outcomes.
A total of 27 chemicals of concern were documented, with 14 relaxer products listing undisclosed ingredients. The study also found four substances prohibited under European Union Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetics, to which the East African Standard (KS EAS 377–1: 2013) refers.
About 15 relaxers carried the label "for professional use only," yet were easily available over the counter.
Twelve of the 22 products were made in Kenya. The rest were from Uganda, Egypt, South Africa, and the United States.
Ingredient lists were often vague. Some 14 relaxer labels listed "fragrance" and "parfum" without specifying the chemicals involved.
Complex mixtures
"These terms typically refer to complex mixtures of undisclosed chemicals added to create a pleasant aroma or mask the odour of strong ingredients," the study explains.
The Kenya Bureau of Standards (Kebs)(cosmetic labelling standard (KS EAS 346:2022) requires "perfume" or "flavour" to be listed on labels, but there are no regulations mandating disclosure of chemical constituents.
None of the 22 relaxer labels contained information on potential adverse health effects.
"All 22 relaxer products contained more than one fragrance chemical, indicating that users are potentially exposed to multiple allergens and complex chemical mixtures," the study notes.
Linalool and limonene/d-limonene, classified as skin and eye irritants, were the most frequently identified fragrance chemicals.
Although the pH values of all 22 relaxers were within Kebs regulatory limits, their extreme alkalinity makes them inherently corrosive, increasing the risk of scalp burns and irritation when use deviates from guidelines.
"The data can inform public health interventions and educational initiatives to increase awareness among consumers, cosmetologists, and salon workers regarding potentially harmful chemicals in hair products sold in Kenya," the study states.
Presenting the findings, Dr Beatrice Irungu, Senior Principal Research Scientist and Head of the Chemical Sciences Division at Kemri's Centre for Traditional Medicine and Drug Research, said they found six chemicals that, according to the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics, should not be in any personal care product. These include formaldehyde, a known carcinogen.
She said they did not find per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS), known as "forever chemicals" because they do not break down easily.
Metals found in the study include chromium, cobalt, lead, and uranium, all banned in the European Union.
"We were not sure whether the metals were added intentionally or were contaminants. If intentional, they are likely used as colourants. If unintended, they are contaminants from raw materials," she explained.
Health risks
Dr Irungu said the researchers assessed the chemicals' carcinogenic (cancer causing) potential using International Agency for Research on Cancer classifications.
She advised consumers to be vigilant.
"Educate yourself on the products you use. Information is available online," she said.
Prof Llanos Adana, the principal researcher and an epidemiologist, told Nation that although the study was conducted in two counties, it is likely representative of the country.
"The women perceived moderate to high general health risks and breast cancer risk. We expected those who perceived high breast cancer risk would use fewer products, but that is not what we found," she said.
"Women should be aware of these chemicals and metals and their potential health risks."
She noted that past studies show a strong relationship between hair dyes and relaxers and increased breast cancer risk.
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"These are not causative associations, but they are statistically significant. These are important exposures to consider," she said.
Judy Nyabuto, representing Kebs at the conference, said the institution conducts regular analysis and has banned several cosmetic products. These are listed on the Kebs website.
She said some skin-lightening products in Kenya contain mercury, which damages kidneys, affects brain function, causes irritation, and can trigger autoimmune disease.
"Someone could be wondering why they have a disease they were not born with. It could be related to products containing mercury," she said.
Kebs also conducted surveillance on hair products in Nairobi and Machakos counties. All liquid and hair dyes tested had zero per cent compliance with the Kebs standards.
"This means the products in our market need to be keenly examined," she said.
Judith explained that a product commonly used in barbershops contains aryl amine, found in permanent hair colours and associated with cancer.
Limiting melanin production
Kebs also analysed hydroquinone, a compound in lotions used for skin whitening. She said it should only be used under prescription for about two weeks. Overexposure can cause skin darkening and sensitivity to ultraviolet rays, limiting melanin production.
When Kebs finds such products, its surveillance team can destroy them or prosecute manufacturers.
Dr Elias Melly, Chief Executive of the National Cancer Institute, said that since some chemicals have been associated with cancer, the institute can create awareness when solid data confirms causation.
"We do not want to misinform people," he said.
"We see an opportunity to invest in research so that those causing these risks participate in solving our problems. We need to build more capacity locally," he added.
To verify if a product has been approved by Kebs, send an SMS to 20023. Type SM (hashtag) followed by the permit number.
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