Homa Bay County has been in the news lately for controversial reasons, but more for endeavouring to live up to its moniker – the bay of countless possibilities. After recently ticking this county off my Kenyan bucket list, I am convinced that—save for Kwale—few counties can match her varied natural beauty.
Did you know you might never witness a more arresting sunrise or sunset than from the white sandy beaches of Takawiri Island? And yes, we know Kwale’s Shimba Hills National Reserve as a hilly marvel, home to elephant-laden coastal rainforests and grasslands that form the last breeding ground of the endangered sable antelope. But did you know that Homa Bay’s Ruma National Park, with its dramatically rolling savannah, hosts unmatched towers of Nubian giraffe and is the last sanctuary for yet another remarkable endangered antelope—the roan? With so many comparisons, it is rather odd that Homa Bay receives only a fraction of the visitors her equals enjoy.
That is the awareness that pushed organisers to stage a weeklong hiking excursion to Western Kenya dubbed Magharibi Trails. This was the second edition of a larger six-event series that is part of Kenya’s broader strategy to diversify its tourism portfolio. The goal? To tap into the fast-growing global adventure tourism market.
The series kicked off in January with the Heritage Trails Expedition, which featured hiking, biking, cultural immersions, and farm tours (with coffee and tea tastings) across five counties: Laikipia, Elgeyo Marakwet, Uasin Gishu, Baringo, and Nandi. It culminated with the Barng’etuny Run on January 18 in Nandi, aligned with the Athletics Kenya calendar.
My experience began in the 244 square kilometres Kakamega Forest—the only remnant in Kenya of the once-great tropical rainforest that stretched across Central Africa. Some in our group chose to cycle, I opted for the walk. Unlike most hilly, high-altitude hiking trails, Kakamega’s flat network of nature trails makes it ideal for all kinds of hikers. All you need to do is adjust your distance to your fitness level and wear appropriate shoes. We took the extended 22-kilometre trail—a fitting challenge that led us through the original, undisturbed primary forest, then the secondary forest regenerating from past disturbance, and finally towards natural and man-made glades.
I was impressed to learn how the Kenya Forest Service and Kenya Wildlife Service manage different sectors of the forest, balancing tourism, conservation, and community use.
According to KWS Senior Warden Karen Ndiema, who oversees the northern side reserved for tourism, Kakamega is home to hundreds of bird species, earning its status as an Important Bird Area (IBA). The forest abounds with diverse tree species, butterflies, stingless bees, snakes, and primates. Look out for the blue monkey (Cercopithecus mitis), nicknamed the “flying monkey” for its agile canopy acrobatics, and if you’re lucky, the rare De Brazza monkey (Cercopithecus neglectus).
We walked from the park entrance to Buyangu Hill, taking in uninterrupted views eastward to the Nandi Escarpment. Beneath the towering canopies, the silence was broken only by bird calls, monkey chatter, or the gurgle of the Isiukhu River on its journey to Nam Lolwe (Lake Victoria). Guava trees along the way offered welcome, organic refreshment. Early morning visits are best for deeper immersion. Lunch at Udos or Isikuti campsites, or an overnight stay at the KWS self-catering cottages, increases your chances of unique sightings. We opted for the Grand Turaco Hotel in Kakamega town for a taste of nightlife before setting out for what is referred to as the ‘bay of endless potential’ at dawn.
While Homa Bay is accessible by road via Kisumu–Ahero–Katito–Kendu Bay–Homa Bay (150 km), we chose to savour Lake Nam Lolwe’s Winam Gulf after a 90-kilometre drive from Kisumu. We boarded the ferry at Lwanda Kotieno beach (Siaya) to Mbita. The ferry costs Sh150 per passenger and Sh1,290 for a small car. A water boat covers the route in about 35 minutes for Sh200. The ferry runs three times daily—arrive early to mingle with locals and enjoy fresh tilapia with reasonably priced beer.
While the main road is tarmacked, the stretch to Mbita’s beachfront remains unpaved. But the destination more than compensates for the inconvenience. We arrived just in time for an unmatched sunset. The charm of Mbita has drawn investors from far and wide. Our hostess, Lyne Nzisa, dreamed of retiring in a beach home by age 40. A chance encounter with a Homa Bay native in Addis Ababa redirected her from Diani to Mbita, where the sunrises and sunsets stole her heart. It helps that the waters here are always in gentle motion, leaving no room for mosquitoes, foul smells, or even the nuisance of hyacinth. Nine years on, she is the proud proprietor of Victoria Sands Hotel—a 14-room luxury haven born of passion. From her five-acre perch, all the islands are visible. Water sports abound: Jetskiing, speed boating, and kayaking on Takawiri’s shallows.
“There is no place as beautiful at sunrise and sunset as Homa Bay. The hide-and-seek game the lake plays as you drive along the roads. The undulating hills that hide a cove here and there. If I were 20 years younger, I would move to Homa Bay, seek out a lakefront patch with a backdrop of hills, and build a house with no walls—just huge windows to announce the sunrises. I’d buy a sailboat, maybe a jet ski, build a small jetty, and learn to fish. I’d lease a farm in Kabondo Kasipul (there’s no place in Kenya that grows happier, healthier crops faster—those in Kisii, Meru, Kiambu, Kericho; go visit Kasipul!). On weekends I’d visit far-off islands. On weekdays I’d bike to my shamba and ride back just to feel the warm wind on my face. Every evening I’d sit outdoors, listen to soothing music, and watch my partner make our dinner. December holidays? I’d open my home to friends from Nairobi for a few days of therapy.”
It’s easy to get lost in Mbita’s attractions, but we were on a mission—to hike Ruma National Park, the dramatic valley of the roan antelope and oribi. Like Kakamega, Ruma is welcoming all year round. Lying on the flat Lambwe River Valley floor, bordered by the Kanyamwa Escarpment and the Ruri Hills, Ruma’s mosaic of riverine woodlands, rolling savannahs, escarpments, and cliffs delivered undisturbed peace. I’ve never seen so many giraffes in one spot. While cyclists tackled the park under ranger supervision, hikers explored the fenced Roan Sanctuary, safe from predators and territorial beasts like rhino. Word to the wise. Skip the shorts—long trousers protect against sharp grass and the odd tsetse fly. And always hydrate.
Look out for upcoming editions. Aberdares Trails starting this weekend, with dates for Mt Kenya Trails, Central Rift Trails, and Mt Elgon Mountain Run to be shared later in the year.
