From taboo to trend: Why the modern Kenyan man is in to skincare

Are you among those men who would rather be bludgeoned to death than exfoliate their skin because word has it that it is “a feminine thing?”.

For your armpits, you have an ordinary roll-on, perhaps a normal deodorant because…after all, you are not a caveman. Did you forget that in this era of hugging, your sweat musk is your net worth, or do you just not care?

Thing is, most men do the least as far as their grooming is concerned. Instead they carry on with whatever keeps them looking alive and presentable.

Given, good looks and aesthetics are not an aspiration of many men. But, basic skin care routine is something all men need to practice.

For ages, skin care has been viewed as a modern phenomenon and a preserve of women.

History of men’s use of cosmetics and skincare is inextricably linked to ideas about femininity, masculinity, hygiene and appearance.

Men’s skincare has a long a history in India too. Indian men as well as women used a wide range of cosmetics and skincare products including facemasks, facial oils, perfumed bath powders and even lip salve.

In China, archaeologists found a bronze jar of moisturiser dating to around 700 BC in the tomb of a wealthy nobleman, which suggests that men in the country at the time were taking good care of their skin.

Men’s attitude toward skincare however changed in the 19 Century. During the world war, a lot of men favoured big, bushy beards that emphasised their masculinity. With a focus on hygiene and beard care, facial soaps and beard oils were the main skincare products used then.

However, with the rise of the cosmopolitan man, the old habits of men’s skin care routines have begun creeping back thanks to globalisation, liberation and skin care education.

Three metro men who are loyal adherents of daily skin care routines share their views.

"The biggest stereotype about men who prioritise grooming touches on their sexual orientation."

Muriuki Kagiri, Content Creator

His Instagram handle is @thedapperbrother, and Mr Kagiri is determined to be a real dapper brother. He holds in the highest regard celebrated American record producer Pharrell Williams who, despite being 50 years of age, still spots a seemingly ageless complexion, and a flawless skin.

Pharrell is among male celebrities known to maintain a robust skin care routine that has always been a subject of discussion.

“He once said, ‘Exfoliate like a madman. Remove those dead layers of skin as much as you can, that’s what keeps you fresh.’ He is someone whose skincare routine I find particularly admirable. At 50 his commitment to maintaining healthy skin is evident in his appearance.

“Former England footballer David Beckham is another celebrity whose self-care habits I find very admirable. Since the early 2000s he has been the face of the metrosexual man, and even now, aged 48, he still is,” he says.

Inspired by these two celebrities, Mr Kagiri felt the need to take proactive steps as far as personal grooming is concerned, and the first step was starting a skin care routine.

“To be honest, I just wanted to maintain healthy skin, prevent premature ageing, and boost my overall confidence. I believe that skincare is a form of self-care that plays a significant role in our wellbeing, both physically and mentally,” he says.

In the last seven years, Mr Kagiri has remained loyal to his skin care regime and has never dropped the ball.

“I have two different routines, for mornings and evenings. In the morning, I will cleanse my face with a gentle cleanser just to get rid of the sweat, oil and dirt that may have accumulated on my face. I’ll then apply a serum. Serums are skincare products that contain a high concentration of active ingredients to address specific skin concerns. Currently I’m using a Vitamin C serum to brighten my skin and reduce dark spots on my face. Then I’ll use a moisturiser to hydrate my skin, and finally, sunscreen, to protect my skin from the sun’s harmful UV rays. Aside from my face, I also moisturise my entire body, not just the visible parts.

“In the evenings, I cleanse, but then I apply a retinol serum which reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and then I moisturise. I only exfoliate once a week using a chemical exfoliate to remove dead skin cells from the surface of my skin. I also drink a lot of water, as it keeps my body hydrated and refreshed and helps maintain the skin’s elasticity, which reduces signs of ageing,” he adds.

Mr Kagiri says Sh5,000 is enough capital to get one started with a quality cleanser, moisturiser and sunscreen, which can last for up to two months.

“This is much less than what some people will spend on a night out, right?” he asks.

Mr Kagiri insists that in this era of vast information, it is disheartening to see a lot of men still stuck in the old ways as far as skin care is concerned.

“As men, we tend to uphold the form of masculinity we saw in our fathers or in older male figures. However, we live in a different age now, and it is no surprise that skincare is slowly shedding its association with femininity. The modern man understands that taking care of his skin isn’t about conforming to stereotypes or societal expectations, it’s about self-care, self-expression, and self-confidence,” he says.

But even if you are to dismiss him, Mr Kagiri maintains that at the very least a man should try and cleanse his face.

“It is essential. At the very least, cleanse, moisturise and wear sun protection. Skincare is gender neutral, just like hygiene and healthcare. Male or female, our skin issues and concerns are the same and the ingredients in skincare products serve the exact same purpose. Furthermore, the skin is our biggest organ, so everyone should take proper care of it,” he notes.

But before starting a skin care regime, he advises that one will need to understand their skin type.

“It is important to know your skin type, which is based on the amount of sebum or oil your skin produces. Knowing if your skin is oily, dry, normal or combination will guide you in choosing the product that works best. Also, introduce one product at a time, to give your skin time to acclimatise to the ingredients.”

Mr Kagiri notes that there are still stereotypes associated with men like him who are dedicated to skin care routines.

“The biggest stereotype about men who prioritise grooming touches on their sexual orientation and masculinity. Quit unfortunate,” he concludes.

‘'I was struggling with acne at the time and my self-confidence was taking a hit"

Keah Kingsley, 26 Digital Marketer

Keah’s first encounter with skincare was in 2019, at a time he was battling what he describes as “an acne invasion”.

“Actually my first job in 2019 was at a skincare-focused company. That’s when I got immersed into the world of skincare because at the time I was also was struggling with acne and my self -confidence was taking a hit to the extent that I barely took photos of myself for a couple of years,” Keah recalls.

When Keah began the regimen, his skin care routine was vigorous and rigorous, something that has now changed.

“Over the years my routine has changed from following a 10-step routine to now having just the essentials, which is more manageable. I use a cleanser, serum, moisturiser and sunscreen during the day and the same at night, but without the sunscreen. I occasionally use a sheet mask when I’m in need of that extra hydration. I have been consistently doing it though I have days where I get too tired or forget. Every time I think about how far I’ve come in this journey, I get motivated to stay on track,” he says.

Keah cleanses twice a day and exfoliates twice a week using a retinol serum, and tries to avoid the popular physical scrubs offered at the spa.

Exfoliation removes dead skin cells, allowing a brighter, smoother, softer complexion while preventing breakouts.

“I apply moisturiser in the morning after cleansing, followed by my serum. All skin types benefit from using a moisturiser. I have oily skin and initially I used to avoid moisturiser, but what I didn’t know was that I was harming my moisture barrier, which caused my skin to over produce sebum to compensate for the imbalance,” Kingsley states.

He repeats the same routine every evening.

“I don’t spare my moisturiser at night. In fact I ensure I look like a glazed donut before bed. Reason is that our skin repairs itself at night and it is the perfect time to treat the skin to some moisture buffet,” he adds.

But all this face-pimping comes at a cost. Keah prefers Laroche Posay products that he says have been serving him well for the last seven months. His entire essentials cost him Sh10,000 and last four months before he can refill the supplies again.

There is another cost: Misconception and misinformation about men who have skin care routines.

“I’ve been told before that ‘chali anatumia skincare ni gay’. This is a topic we can talk about at length. Another misconception is that it is excessively time-consuming or expensive to maintain. Some men believe that a skincare routine is complicated or requires numerous products.

“In reality, a simple routine tailored to individual needs can be quick and straightforward. Skincare isn’t about adhering to rigid beauty standards, it is about maintaining skin health, which benefits everyone regardless of gender,” Keah concludes.

‘‘It is not about being fancy, it’s just common sense. Taking care of your skin isn’t just for the ladies."

Malcom Macharia, Creative Film Director

Malcom considers himself an ‘old-school kind of person’. He believes that were it not for his younger sister, he would be bouncing around with a rough face.

“She consistently emphasised on using sunscreen, but many times I would ignore her. At some point her pressure was too much and I just wanted to make her happy so I began using it once in a while. Along the way, I began watching content from international skincare content creators, got hooked and embarked on my own journey. It’s been a year and two months now,” Malcom says.

For the 27-year-old, his regimen is rather simple but effective enough to give him the glow and a glitzy skin. “My routine is pretty straightforward, enabling me to be consistent. Every day, I start by washing my face with a gentle cleanser to get rid of any dirt or oil. After that, I use a toner to make sure my skin is balanced. Then comes the important part, I apply a moisturiser to keep my skin hydrated. In the morning, I make sure to put on some sunscreen to protect from the sun’s rays. It is so simple and I can see positive results. I look younger,” he says.

Malcom insists on the importance of cleansing twice a day. “I make sure to clean my face in the morning and before bedtime. In the morning, it helps get rid of any oil or sweat that built up overnight. At night, it’s crucial because throughout the day, our faces collect dirt, pollution, and the oil our skin naturally produces. Cleaning it all off before sleeping helps prevent clogged pores and breakouts.”

Malcom believes a moisturiser is a must have. He also exfoliates twice a week.

“The frequency and timing of moisturising can vary depending on factors such as skin type. Since I have normal skin type, I moisturise twice a day. In the morning, I moisturise after cleansing, as this helps to create a protective barrier and keeps my skin hydrated throughout the day. Applying moisturiser to damp skin helps lock in moisture. Then in the evening, applying a moisturiser before bedtime helps your skin recover and regenerate during sleep,” he adds.

For his essentials Malcom spends between Sh8,000 and Sh11,000 depending on the products which last him between three and four months on everyday use.

In his interaction with his peers, the creative observes that a lot of men still consider men’s skin care a taboo, and some even fault him for trying hard to act “bougie”.

“It is not about being fancy or anything, it’s just common sense. Taking care of your skin isn’t just for the ladies. It’s about feeling good in your own skin and having healthy skin. Imagine having clear skin and looking all fresh, that’s a boost for your confidence right there. Besides, it’s not like you have to go crazy with a bunch of products, just basic stuff like washing your face, moisturising, and throwing on some sunscreen. That’s all,” he emphasises.

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