The global fashion industry is undergoing a massive transformation as sustainability becomes more than just a buzzword, it is a necessity. As the world begins to reckon with the impact of fast fashion on both people and the planet, a growing number of designers, activists, and industry leaders are championing a return to more sustainable practices.
For a long time, the harmful effects of the fast fashion industry were left unchecked, but as awareness spreads, the demand for ethical, eco-friendly clothing is on the rise. However, the fashion industry’s sustainability journey in Africa is still in its early stages. Despite the continent's rich history of slow fashion, where quality and longevity were prioritised, modern trends threaten to undo these deeply rooted traditions.
As Western fast fashion brands flood African markets with cheap, disposable clothing, the long-term environmental consequences are beginning to surface. Textiles that aren't biodegradable are piling up in landfills across Kenya and other African nations, threatening ecosystems and livelihoods, but amidst the challenges, there is hope. Across the fashion world, efforts are being made to turn the tide, with passionate designers and advocates working together to introduce sustainable alternatives. In Kenya, for instance, the journey toward sustainability has begun, albeit slowly, as awareness spreads and a new generation of designers emerges with an eco-conscious mindset.
The Kenyan fast fashion crisis
At the heart of Kenya’s waste crisis lies Dandora, Nairobi’s sprawling landfill, where acres of discarded textiles rot in the sun. According to Fiskani Kaira, a fashion designer and advocate for sustainable fashion who is based in Atlanta Georgia, the scene is harrowing. Having researched the area extensively before her arrival, Ms Fiskani felt compelled to visit and witness the impact of fast fashion first hand.
"It bothered me so much that with fast fashion, you see clothes made for just one dollar, and that fashion ends up in the dump. I had to come to see it for myself," she says.
Her visit confirmed her worst fears. Dandora has become a resting place for the by-products of fast fashion, most of which is non-biodegradable. Textile waste piles up, and due to its synthetic nature, it will take hundreds of years to decompose, if it ever does.
Celebrity Stylist Fiskani Kaira during an interview at Radisson Blu Arboretum in Nairobi on September 7, 2024.
Photo credit: Bonface Bogita | Nation
"It was almost 40 acres of trash fashion, and textiles are the worst for the environment because they can never go away," Ms Fiskani explains.
For many Kenyans, fast fashion is the most accessible option, as it is cheap and readily available, however, Ms Fiskani points out that this was not always the case. She recalls the days when families passed down clothing from one sibling to the next, emphasising longevity and reuse over disposal.
"If we go back 30 years ago, when we were young, parents would keep things for the next child, or pass them on to someone in need," she says, noting that the rise of fast fashion has upended these traditional practices.
Renting and upcycling as a solution
Despite the grim reality in places like Dandora, Ms Fiskani’s outlook remains hopeful. Her fashion showroom in Atlanta, The Ivy Showroom, offers an alternative to fast fashion: renting.
"We rent our items, buy lovely couture gowns, and bring them back," she explains. "We can reuse our clothes and bring awareness to the importance of sustainability in fashion."
For Ms Fiskani, sustainable fashion is not just about what is trending, it’s a way of life. She has spent years advocating for upcycling and partnering with designers who share her vision of sustainability. In Kenya, she sees potential in collaborating with local creatives to repurpose fabrics and create new designs from old materials.
"There is no way I can go wrong with partnering with designers who are focused on upcycling," she says. "It’s not so much about price but style, you just need to be a good designer. It’s not about the fabric you use or the quality."
Her message resonates in a country where young designers are already making strides in sustainable fashion, particularly in areas like Kibera. Here, creatives are turning fabric scraps into patchwork pieces and finding innovative ways to recycle materials.
The Global Push for Sustainability
While Kenya’s fashion industry is still catching up, other regions of the world are moving ahead with bold new legislation aimed at promoting sustainable practices. Lisa Kibutu, a member of the Regenerative Fashion Collaborative Exchange, explains how Europe is leading the charge.
"In Europe, there are several legislations that have been passed on sustainable fashion," she says. "Almost 40 per cent of the garments being imported into Europe have to be sustainable. France, in particular, has passed a full mending law to ensure none of their textiles end up in landfills."
The movement has spread to the United States as well, with New York signing a fashion pact that bans non-sustainable fabrics. Ms Kibutu highlights how crucial it is to address textile waste, noting that the demand for sustainable fashion is now outstripping supply.
"The demand is extremely high right now. It is estimated that it’s 12 times what is available in the market," she says.
REFACE founder Lisa Kibutu during an interview at Radisson Blu Arboretum in Nairobi on September 7, 2024.
Photo credit: Bonface Bogita | Nation
Despite these advances, Ms Kibutu points out that Africa has yet to develop a robust textile industry to meet this growing demand.
Ignorance as a barrier to change
One of the biggest obstacles to widespread adoption of sustainable fashion in Kenya, Ms Kibutu says, is ignorance. Many people are unaware of the environmental harm caused by polyester and other synthetic materials.
"Polyester is fast fashion," she explains, "and it’s everywhere. Almost 70 per cent of the fabrics used today are plastic-based. People don’t know how bad it is not just for your skin, but for the environment too."
The lack of awareness is exacerbated by Kenya’s economic realities. With many families focused on putting food on the table, the type of clothing they wear often takes a back seat.
"For Africans, our needs are so great that what they are wearing has no priority. They will go for what is cheap and available because polyester is fast fashion," Ms Kibutu says.
The result is a second wave of fast fashion, created through the mitumba (secondhand) industry, which continues to flood local markets with cheap, disposable clothing.
The future of fashion in Kenya
Despite these challenges, there is a growing movement within Kenya’s fashion industry to embrace sustainability. Younger generations, particularly Gen Z and late millennials, are more aware of issues like climate change and are eager to make a difference. Ms Kibutu has seen how this new generation of designers is challenging the status quo.
"It’s encouraging to see new designers coming out of places like Kibera, using patchwork from scraps of fabric," she says, and adds, "They are cautious about how they recycle textiles and are incredibly creative in their styles."
The challenge now is to ensure that these efforts are scaled up, with more support for local designers and better access to sustainable fabrics. Ms Kibutu believes that education is key to making sustainability a priority for both designers and consumers.
Couture Africa Limited Founder Olive Gachara during an interview at Radisson Blu Arboretum in Nairobi on September 7, 2024.
Photo credit: Bonface Bogita | Nation
Olive Gachara, Founder and CEO of Couture Africa Magazine, emphasises that for the sustainable fashion movement to succeed, consumers must play their part.
"At the end of the day, if the consumer does not consume sustainable fashion, everything the industry is doing will be at a loss," she says, "The cards are stacked against sustainable fashion because it will always be more expensive."
However, Ms Gachara believes that this does not have to be the case. Mass production of sustainable fabrics could help lower costs, making eco-friendly options more accessible to the general public.
"We don’t need to have as many clothes as we think we do," she states, "It’s okay to wear the same outfit over and over again."
Ultimately, the key to reducing the fashion industry’s environmental footprint lies not just in producing sustainable textiles, but in addressing the waste already present. As Ms Gachara points out, the mountains of discarded clothes won’t disappear overnight.
"There’s a lot of work to be done," she says. "We need to fix what is already there, so even as we work on reducing the carbon footprint of new fabrics, we’re also addressing the waste that’s already here."
