As the sun dipped behind Nairobi’s skyline on Wednesday, twinkling lights began to adorn homes in most of the city’s affluent neighbourhoods.
The scent of roasted turkey, freshly baked cakes and mulled wine drifted from mansions, each carefully decorated with wreaths, fairy lights and Christmas trees reaching the ceilings.
Here, Christmas is a celebration of abundance, a season of joy, indulgence and family gatherings that stretch late into the night.
More than 360 kilometres away from the glittering lights of Nairobi, Christmas arrived in silence and dust at Sitet Primary School in Narok County.
Here, dozens of families displaced by recent violent clashes have turned classrooms into temporary shelters.
The air is heavy with the smell of smoke from makeshift fires lit outside the classrooms where women prepare weak porridge to feed children who have not known a full meal in days.
At night, the cold bites hard and thin blankets are shared among families as some children sleep curled against their mothers for warmth after lining up with plastic cups, hoping for a second serving of porridge..
For these families, Christmas will pass like any other day—without gifts, a special meal, no new clothes for children, no travel plans or festive tables.
Displaced residents shelter at Sitet Primary School in Angata Barikoi, Narok County after fleeing clashes in the area.
Photo credit: Tobias Messo | Nation Media Group
Instead, there will be anxious conversations about when it will be safe to return home and how long they can remain in a place never meant to house the displaced.
In the crowded lanes of Kibera, Mathare and other informal settlements, Christmas also tells a different story.
Children peer longingly through fences at shops they will not enter, while parents worry about how they will put a meal on the table tomorrow.
This contrasts with the glaring divide between Kenya’s rich and poor, which is perhaps never more evident than during the festive season.
For many, Christmas is a reminder of what they lack rather than a celebration of what they have.
“For me, Christmas is just another day of trying to survive, finding food and worrying about rent. I have nothing planned for my children. It hurts to see them happy with so little, yet still wishing for more. I wash clothes for people to survive, and even then, I must think about rent, not dreams. I can only hope that one day, I will be able to give them more,” said Mary Okoth,36, from Mukuru kwa Njenga.
For the mother of two, Christmas is a bittersweet day. As the festive cheer sweeps through the city, it brings with it a painful reminder of everything she wishes she could give her children but cannot.
“The economy is terribly bad. I wash clothes and clean people’s houses just to get my family through each day, I pay rent of Sh5,000 and yet my children need food. I wish I could do more for them but I can’t . My eldest always wants to go to a bouncing castle, where can that money come from. Prices keep rising while opportunities keep shrinking and, sometimes, it feels like no matter how hard I work, I am always one step behind,”she said.
A spot check in various shops revealed that boys’ clothes vary in price depending on the item and material. T-shirts cost up to Sh1,000, while jeans trousers go for as much as Sh1,300.
Two-piece outfits range from Sh2,000 to Sh5,500, depending on the fabric quality.
“I would love to buy them clothes, but what’s the point when they have nothing to eat and January is just around the corner?” pondered Ms Okoth
Traders sell bags on Pumwani Road in Nairobi on December 21, 2025.
Photo credit: Dennis Onsongo | Nation Media Group
However, in affluent neighbourhoods, supermarkets are bustling. Families stock up on imported chocolates, designer clothes and expensive wines. Malls are awash with shoppers carrying branded gift bags.
Social media feeds explode with images of luxury Christmas trees, perfectly wrapped presents and glittering feasts.
“There has been a strong surge this festive season. In many cases, you simply could not find air tickets because most flights were sold out as early as last month. Unless airlines increased capacity, there were no additional seats to sell,” said Nicanor Sabula, CEO of Kenya Association of Travel Agents (Kata).
For those with disposable incomes, the month is filled with luxurious traditions—gifts exchanged in abundance, grand dinners at five-star restaurants and family vacations to exotic destinations.
“Right now, we are seeing a lot of travel to South Africa because of ease of access and good connectivity. Destinations like Malaysia and Singapore continue to attract more travellers alongside regional markets such as Rwanda, ” said Mr Sabula.
If you’re a big fan of TikTok, you’ve likely come across hashtags like #ComeWithMeToDubai or #ComeWithMeAndMyFamilyToMasaiMara, showcasing the stark contrast of how others live.
These videos filled with luxury and adventure, highlight the grandeur of holiday getaways, private safaris and lavish celebrations.
While these moments are filled with happiness, they also serve as a reminder of the divide—the experiences of those who can travel the world and those who can’t even afford the basics.
“This year, we’re visiting the Maasai Mara for a three-day Christmas safari since my younger brothers haven’t experienced it yet. Last year, we travelled to Singapore, so my dad thought it would be fun to explore something different this time. Our family has a calendar where we plan holiday trips, creating a special Christmas tradition we all look forward to,” said Ms Mariam Alex.
But for millions of Kenyans, especially in informal settlements and rural areas, the season is marked by anxiety.
Many parents scramble to stretch meagre incomes to buy a little food, a few sweets or a modest gift for their children. For others, the festive season amplifies feelings of exclusion, humiliation and despair.
According to an Infotrak report released yesterday, economic hardship has emerged as the single most dominant factor shaping public opinion, with the high cost of living cited by 67 per cent of respondents as the main reason the country is perceived to be headed in the wrong direction.
This is followed by unemployment (33per cent), poor governance/politics (27per cent), and education sector challenges (26per cent).
Further, the report shows that more than half of Kenyans (55 per cent) do not intend to celebrate the 2025 festive season as they traditionally do, largely due to lack of money. Importantly, the number is five per cent increase from 2024.
Seventy-eight per cent cited financial constraints, underscoring the depth of economic pressures facing households.
Customers buy chicken at Burma Market in Nairobi, on Wednesday, December 24, 2025, as last-minute preparations for Christmas Day gather pace.
Photo credit: Dennis Onsongo | Nation Media Group
The inability to afford festive celebrations was most pronounced among respondents aged 46–55 years (86 per cent) and those living in Nairobi and Western regions (both at 87 per cent).
For Mr Richard Ogutu, a matatu driver, Christmas presents a different kind of sacrifice. While his employer does not expect him to work on the day, he chooses to do so.
He uses the opportunity to ferry travellers to various destinations at slightly higher fares, with the day’s earnings going directly into his pocket.
“Whatever I make on Christmas and New Year goes towards the school fees of my two children in high school,” he says, adding that missing out on celebrations has never troubled him.
Meanwhile, Nairobi’s hospitality industry has rolled out elaborate festive offerings tailored for those who can afford to escape the city or celebrate in luxury.
Five-star hotels and boutique resorts are advertising Christmas staycations complete with themed décor, live entertainment, children’s play zones and curated festive menus.
Guests are promised lavish buffets featuring roast turkey, honey-glazed ham, seafood platters and decadent desserts, often paired with unlimited wine and cocktails.
At Fairmont Norfolk, Cluster Executive Chef Binay Kumar is orchestrating a holiday menu where nostalgia meets the culture seasonality.
“This December, we’re introducing a collection of dishes that marry classic holiday comfort with fresh, seasonal Kenyan ingredients,” he says.
His kitchen is preparing a spiced pineapple and ginger glazed turkey with yorkshire pudding, a roast goat leg with tamarind jus, suckling pig, roast gammon and a coconut–cardamom white chocolate mousse that has the coastal charm.
Even the drinks carry a Kenyan touch with creations such as baobab mulled punch and hibiscus eggnog fizz making their debut.
“The inspiration comes from two places: nostalgia for traditional festive flavours and a desire to express Kenya’s vibrant produce and culinary heritage in a modern, celebratory way,”he says.
The chef also talks on how he has noticed a shift in how guests are approaching the festive dining. “We have seen guests leaning toward lighter, cleaner flavours, increased plant-forward options, and globally familiar dishes with local twists,” he says.
