Two wheels and a dream: The extraordinary tale of Kenya's bravest boda boda rider
Emily Ndunge with her colleagues in Garissa town on March 23, 2024. She is the only female boda boda rider in Garissa.
What you need to know:
- At 41, she stands out as the only female boda boda operator among thousands of men in this conservative Somali-dominated region.
- Her story is one of resilience, determination, and the courage to break barriers in a male-dominated field.
In the sweltering heat of Garissa town, a lone figure weaves through the bustling streets on a motorcycle. At first glance, nothing seems unusual about this boda boda rider navigating the chaos of urban traffic. But a closer look reveals a surprising truth: the rider is a woman, and her name is Emily Ndunge.
When she revved her boda boda engine for the first time on the dusty streets of Garissa, she knew her journey would be far from easy. In a town where cultural norms dictate that a woman's place is in the home, Emily has dared to challenge the status quo.
At 41, she stands out as the only female boda boda operator among thousands of men in this conservative Somali-dominated region. Her story is one of resilience, determination, and the courage to break barriers in a male-dominated field.
A leap of faith
Her story begins in 2013, when she arrived in Garissa from her hometown of Kyuso in Kitui County. With a keen eye for opportunity, she quickly noticed a gap in the transport sector, invested in boda bodas, intending to hire local youths to run her budding business. However, things did not go as planned.
"I bought three motorcycles and hired some youths to run the boda boda business while I worked in a local hotel," Emily recalls, her eyes reflecting the memory of those early days.
But her initial foray into entrepreneurship was met with disappointment.
"They were never honest," she says, shaking her head. "It was one dishonest story after another, every day."
Faced with constant setbacks, Emily made a bold decision that would change the course of her life: she would become her own boss.
Emily (centre) with her colleagues in Garissa town on March 23, 2024. She has against all odds emerged as the only female boda boda operator in Garissa town.
For the past eight years, she has ridden through Garissa town’s bustling streets, competing against male riders and taxi drivers, all while enduring the stifling heat and tough conditions. She has been a fixture on these streets, navigating the complex web of cultural expectations.
Having learned how to ride a motorbike back in 2005, she was no stranger to the skill, but riding in Garissa proved to be a different challenge altogether.
"It is just never that easy to make it as a female boda boda rider in this town," Emily explains, her voice tinged with determination. "Most of our customers are local men whose culture does not expect them to be driven by women. The society here only allows a woman to stay at home and look after children."
The backlash from the local community was swift and harsh. Emily found herself rejected by potential customers, forced to adopt creative measures to survive in the business.
"I had to completely cover my face and have my male colleagues negotiate prices for me," she reveals. "I never spoke to any passenger during the trip since my voice could betray me."
Hassan Salat, a local resident, provides context to the cultural resistance Emily faces: "Our culture and religion forbid a man to sit behind a woman on a motorcycle. This is why most men around are finding it ridiculous to ride on her motorcycle."
Perseverance in the face of danger
Beyond cultural barriers, Emily must also contend with the ever-present threat of crime and terrorism in Garissa. The presence of criminal gangs and the Al-Shabaab terror group adds an extra layer of danger to her daily work.
"I've had incidents where I realised a customer's intention was to steal my bike," Emily recounts, her eyes narrowing at the memory. "It's never easy to know who a genuine client is in Garissa town. Customers with bad intentions will easily accept to pay more than what you asked for. It's up to a rider to be wise and realise the lurking danger."
Despite these challenges, Emily remains committed to her work. She starts her day at 6am and closes by 6 pm for security reasons and family obligations, while her male counterparts often operate late into the night.
Earning respect, one ride at a time
Slowly but surely, Emily's persistence and professionalism have begun to win over the community. Maxwell Onyango, Chairman of the Garissa Boda Boda Association, speaks highly of her: "She is a loyal member and well-behaved on the road. We rarely hear cases of any sort about her. Her motorcycle is up to the required standards, and because of her good character, she represents our association in meetings outside Garissa town."
Customers who have experienced Emily's service also attest to her skill. Ken Mwendwa, a local resident, notes, "She is always careful when riding and observes the rules while on the road. Her speed is moderate, unlike her male counterparts."
On a good day, Emily can make up to Sh1,500, competing with at least 20 men at her designated stage. Her success serves as an inspiration to other women in the community.
Message of empowerment
Emily's journey is more than just a personal triumph; it's a beacon of hope for female entrepreneurs facing similar challenges. Her advice to them is simple yet powerful: "Stay focused on whatever pays your bills and provides food for your children. Identify the challenges you are faced with and find a way out, and you will make it in life."
As the sun sets on another day in Garissa, Emily continues to ride, her motorcycle a symbol of defiance against societal norms and a testament to the power of perseverance.
In a town where tradition once dictated her limits, she has carved out a path of her own, proving that with determination and courage, even the most entrenched barriers can be broken.
