Kilindini Cultural Centre at heart of Mombasa’s history

From the warm ocean breeze to striking sunsets, the Mama Ngina Waterfront abounds with the cultural history of Mombasa, be it the timeless ‘Mzimule’ or the heritage of the Kilindini Cultural Centre.

Like most Kenyans, I knew of the seaboard two decades ago on my first trip to the coast while in primary school.

Back then, the 26-acre bushy and un-manicured park, didn’t have much to see of. What remained in my mind for long was watching the big ships as they docked in and out of Kilindini harbour while enjoying the delicious Swahili street food like viazi karai, mitai, mogo, madafu, vibibi or mishikaki.

To many the drive park, which underwent a Sh460 million major facelift two years ago with the area developed into a recreational facility, is still an exotic spot to congregate and unwind.

What most actually miss out on is the fact that beneath the exotic park, lies ancient archeological remnants that oral and archeological accounts indicate was the foundation of the city of Mombasa.

The three kilometre drive park is now under the stewardship of a heritage epoch, the newly built Kilindini Cultural Centre.

Mombasa is one of the oldest cities on the eastern seaboard. The city grew around the port of Kilindini, a natural deep harbour at the end of the Likoni channel.

Going by the archeological accounts, the park was anciently inhabited by the Swahili of Tauca who later disintegrated.

“Dating as early as the 10th century, there were Swahili inhabitants in this present Mama Ngina Drive. They were the Tauca who later split into three — Wachangamwe, Watangana and Wakilindini — and spread to other parts of the Coast. However, Wakilindini remained here, reason why the centre is named after the community,” Ali Nuru Ali, National Coordinator of Kilindini Cultural Center, told Saturday Nation when we visited.

The heritage epoch is built in great Swahili architecture but has a modern fill added to it. It serves as an exhibition and museum for the Swahili culture consisting of exhibition halls.

Walking through the neat park under the canopy of indigenous trees, majority being the baobab, one can’t help but notice other historical and archeological footprints that were once not visible having been buried in the thicket of the bush and shrubs that now have been cleared.

They are military structures built by the Portuguese and the British in different times, in the form of bunkers and redoubts to protect the island from enemy attacks.

The baobab trees dating back to 400 years are actually grave markers for the original settlers who were killed during the rebellion wars against the Arabs, Portuguese and British.

“This area, as I earlier mentioned, was an early settlement for the Wakilindini but also a battleground during the Arab-Portuguese wars. Every baobab tree you see here is actually a grave of heroes who fought against the colonials,” Ali explains.

The park was also very significant to the Wakilindini nation as it is the place where the community converged for cultural and traditional rituals under the guide of the popular tribe chief Ras Mzimle.

Since the upgrading of the park, there have been several petitions to have the name changed from Mama Ngina WaterFront.

Civil society groups such as Okoa Mombasa have been championing to have the park renamed arguing that the name should reflect the historical and cultural heritage of the Coastal town.

Some groups have proposed the park to be named after Mekatilili wa Menza in reference to the first female from Coast who led a rebellion against the colonisers.

“Others want the park named after Mzimle while there are those who want it named Wakilindini park,” Nuru continues.

The park has had different names since 1677 when the Portuguese called the area Ras Mzimli, after the powerful ruler whom they encountered when they first landed in Mombasa.

The British turned the area into a park between 1912 and 1936 renaming it the Azania Drive Park.

When Kenya gained Independence in 1963, founding president Jomo Kenyatta renamed the park after his wife.

56 years later, President Uhuru Kenyatta he opened the refurbished park, renaming it to Mama Ngina Waterfront.

Okoa Mombasa argue that the name Mzimle would reconnect the park to its historical past while Mekatilili would link the park with its desired future as a liberated zone.

Ali Nuru agrees. “There is much in the name and a native name would signify something. With the upgrading of these culturally significant spaces, it has provided an opportunity to share these rich diversified history and cultural traditions of our ancestors.”

Even as the Centre strives to maintain the park as a cultural and historic spot, it is also working round the clock to be self-sustaining.

“We sell space for expos and cultural events. We recently hosted a Somali cultural event. We also have rooms at the centre that we are turning into conference halls. There are also plans to have restaurants around the park,” Nuru Ali says.

Plans are also underway to have barriers from end to end of the three kilometre stretch and have gate revenue from the car park.

“Currently its free because it’s a public facility. People park here and disappear for days,” Nuru says.

If you haven’t been to this historical recreational facility yet, it runs from Likoni ferry crossing all the way to Mombasa Golf club. There is a rail barrier constructed along the cliff as a safety measure. There is a wide pedestrian path lined up with palm trees from end to end ideal for walks, runs and jogging. The path also has benches and sitting areas.

Unlike before, the street food and snack vendors now have a central place where they have set up modern kiosks. TukTuks are banned here.

Past the Kilindini Cultural centre sits a mosque and a little further an amphitheater with ancient Rome design with a capacity of 3,000. It is set up in a large open space ideal for entertainment concerts, roadshows or any cultural event. There are monuments representing the original settlers.

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