Who let the kinks out? In the business of black hair

Every single time my natural hair is out, I get amused when I’m told to take “that ugly wig” off my head.

Granted, I was not born with this particular colour, but the kinks, coils and pouffiness; those are part of my DNA, as much as the 4c (and 4b) hair is a part of millions of black women’s DNA.

I work in an office where every woman wears their hair natural. Well, save for that one relaxed straggler. I never relaxed my hair thanks to schoolteachers who snipped relaxed hair off, which often followed a brief period of public shaming of the culprits.

Still, I had not foreseen a period when naturalistas would walk the earth as freely as they now do.

Market research firm, Mintel, estimates the size of the US black hair market in 2012 to have been worth $684 million (Sh59 billion), with a projection of $761 million (Sh66 billion) by 2017. They also wisely note:

“What’s missing from these figures are general market brands, weaves, extensions, wigs, independent beauty supply stores, distributors, e-commerce, styling tools and appliances. If all of those things were to be taken into consideration, the $684 million in expenditures could reach a whopping half a trillion dollars.”

That deserves a moment of silence. Black hair is mighty serious business.

HAIRCARE
Grown, literally, from the grassroots, the natural hair momentum has caused fundamental shifts in business, fashion and relationships. It goes beyond black pride.

Huge companies that had previously catered to black women by promoting relaxers have recorded a 12 per cent decline in sales. Mintel states “Relaxers represent 21 pc of the black haircare market, with expenditures at $152 million (Sh13 billion), down 15 pc since 2011 ‘due to the natural hair trend’.”

Euromonitor International says: “The Middle East and Africa hair care market alone was valued at $4.2 billion (Sh3.6 trillion) in 2013.”

In an industry that taps into well over half a billion dollars, black hair is no longer a side issue. A connection of business empires, communities, strategic decisions and self-esteem all get wrapped up in the delicate strands of kinky, curly hair.

Huffington Post states that existing brands such as Dove, Pantene, Suave and L’Oreal have had to either buy into existing brands, add ingredients that savvy naturalistas expect or release new products targeting natural hair.

These decisions are not just being driven by trends. Women have emotional, social and cultural issues braided into their hair. It is personal. Hair can make grown women cry.

BLACK OWNERS
New York Times reported in September that black women are finding hair to be a lucrative business opportunity. Women would be right to think so. The first ever self-made black millionaire was Madam C J Walker. She made beauty and hair care products for black women.

Aptly referred to as a “movement” via a “community”, naturalistas prefer to put their trust in fellow naturals, buying into the products fellow naturals create. For the simple reason that these founders get it.

They pass the hardship test. The greatest business asset black owners bring to the table is relatability. Customers know they know exactly what it feels like to have to fight your way from nappy to happy.

October 22-25 this year marks the first ever International Black Hair Summit in Montego Bay, Jamaica. The main agenda will be, as blackeconomicdevelopment.com states:

“…with the Korean domination of the beauty supply stores in major urban areas, large multi-national corporations controlling product retailing and distribution, and state governments imposing burdensome licensing requirements on natural hair braiders across the US, the economic benefits to the Black community are practically non-existent.

ECONOMIC IMPLICATIONS
Recognising the negative economic implications not only for today but for the foreseeable future, an urgent global call is being made for all to attend the International Black Hair Summit. The goal is to connect, learn and implement specific actions to address the gross inequities in this global multi-billion dollar industry.”

Naturals felt overlooked by big brands, and they resorted to self-care. These homemade recipes are moving from de rigeurto good business.

With ACV rinses replacing shampoos, the no-poo trend, eggs, olive oil and coconut oil to deep condition and honey to soften the hair, the natural community became fiercely and proudly independent. They will wear their hair as they damn well please.

The expanse of tutorials, websites, forums, workshops, sisterhoods, feedback and access to information never available in mainstream media has also meant the elimination of hair stylists. Plus, naturalistas are not the easiest clients to please.

They have this irritating habit of conducting research, delving into and exploring ingredients. Their product assessments can be quite detailed, challenging the status quo.

As far as naturals are concerned, their homes, kitchens and bathrooms are very valid laboratories thank you very much. What makes the black-owned hair businesses even more exciting is yet another business rule embraced largely by the luxury market – what is your brand story? Naturals buy by forming emotional connections to favoured brands.

Spark their loyalty and boom, you’re in business. Existing forums have made it possible for women to endlessly discuss their own hair, finally allowing themselves the joy of expressinga fascination with something long considered frivolous. Now that someone dared let the kinks out, the dam can’t be plugged.