A plate of green vegetables in milk.
Nancy Oketch is one of many Kenyans with a deep appreciation for indigenous vegetables.
Each Sunday, after church service, Ms Oketch visits the nearby Kibuye Market where she carefully selects a variety of traditional leafy greens to nourish her family for the week ahead.
This habit is also followed by Dolrose Akinyi, a resident of Kisumu, who recounts that she has long relied on traditional vegetables, which she would purchase in bulk on designated market days.
“In the past, there were specific days set aside for the market, so I would buy these vegetables in large quantities to last until the next market day,” she explains.
Due to their natural bitterness, both women say they would first boil the vegetables, then fry them with onions and tomatoes before adding milk.
“Since the vegetables are not usually consumed immediately, I reheat them with milk throughout the week to prevent spoilage,” Ms Akinyi says.
Traditional vegetables in a farm in Turkana South.
She adopted the practice from her mother who also learned the practice from her own mother.
Ms Akinyi says she has followed the cooking method faithfully throughout her adult life, never omitting a step.
“My mother told me that alot mokuog (boiled, fermented vegetables) is healthy and helps ward off diseases,” she recalls.
As lifestyle-related illnesses continue to rise in Kenya, more people are turning to healthier dietary choices to prevent conditions such as cancer. Among the top choices are African leafy vegetables, which are not only highly nutritious but also widely regarded for their medicinal value.
Common indigenous vegetables include African nightshade (managu), amaranth (terere), jute mallow (mrenda), spider plant (saga), cowpea leaves (kunde), pumpkin leaves (malenge/seveve), slender leaf (mitoo), vine spinach (nderema), cassava leaves and sweet potato vines.
According to a study by the Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO), approximately 34 percent of people living in urban and peri-urban areas in Kenya consume these traditional vegetables.
However, nutritionists are expressing concern over traditional cooking methods, particularly the use of milk during preparation, which may reduce the nutritional benefits of these vegetables.
These vegetables are rich in essential vitamins A, B and C, as well as minerals such as iron and calcium, alongside powerful antioxidants. However, due to their naturally bitter taste, many people tend to boil them extensively and discard the water before frying—further compromising their nutritional value.
But Betty Okundi, Director of Nutrition and Dietetics at Jaramogi Oginga Odinga Teaching and Referral Hospital, warns that this practice may significantly reduce the vegetables' nutritional value.
“Milk contains calcium, which binds with iron and certain vitamins in the vegetables. This reduces absorption, meaning consumers may get little to no nutritional benefit,” she explains. “It may taste good, but you’re mainly getting roughage. The calcium binds with the iron, and that interaction prevents effective nutrient absorption.”
Ms Okundi notes that the darker the green of the vegetable, the higher its iron content, making it particularly beneficial for expectant women. “We advise pregnant women to eat iron-rich local vegetables, yet many cook them with milk. As a result, many return with low haemoglobin levels,” she says.
A similar warning applies to adding milk to omena (silver cyprinid) and porridge, as milk binds the nutrients in these foods as well.
Due to their growing popularity and health benefits, some people now cultivate these vegetables in home gardens, while others purchase them from local markets.
Once harvested or bought, the first step is to separate the leafy parts from the tougher stalks, then thoroughly rinse to remove soil, insects, or any pests clinging to the leaves.
Ms Okundi recommends boiling water first before immersing the vegetables. "Use a small amount of boiling water that won’t need to be discarded," she says.
Chop the vegetables into medium-sized pieces, and cut them after washing to preserve nutrients. “Cutting before washing can cause nutrients to leach out,” she explains.
Allow the vegetables to boil for 10 to 15 minutes. “Some people boil them and then rinse with water, but this leads to significant nutrient loss,” she cautions.
Once boiled, the vegetables can be lightly fried with onions, tomatoes and your preferred seasoning.
Caleb Odipo, a chef at a hotel in Kisumu, notes that many eateries are now moving away from the traditional long-boiling method.
“We first bring water to a boil, adding a little oil, salt and sliced onions. Once the water is ready, we add the cleaned and chopped vegetables,” he explains.
The vegetables are then cooked for 7 to 10 minutes, after which the remaining liquid is strained and reserved for later use.
“We then sauté the vegetables in a bit of oil, since some was already added during boiling, and finish with chicken stock to enhance flavour,” he adds.
Vegetables such as saga, mitoo, and managu are known for their bitterness. Ms Okundi suggests mixing them with milder vegetables, such as pumpkin leaves, amaranth (terere), or spinach, to balance the taste.
“Some people believe not stirring the vegetables while boiling reduces bitterness. Others choose to mix bitter vegetables with peanut butter or they cook tender, less mature leaves like kale with standard seasoning for a milder flavour,” she explains.
When these vegetables are in season and available in abundance, they can be blanched to increase shelf life.
“Briefly blanch them in boiling water, then immerse in iced water, drain, solar-dry, and store in airtight plastic bags,” Ms Okundi advises.
To cook the blanched vegetables later, simply soak in water, simmer, and fry as usual with onions, tomatoes and your preferred spices.
