Exploring the Idyllic Ssese Islands: Uganda's Lakeside Gem
Taking a boat to Ngamba Island Uganda, change to: The MV Brovad boat docking at Ngamba Island on Lake Victoria in Uganda.
What you need to know:
- Ssese Islands are an archipelago with 84 islands of varying sizes; some are uninhabited.
- The islands were actually so-called because some used to be infested with tsetse flies.
Uganda is one of my favourite travel destinations that I think more Kenyans should be privy to. From Jinja, the capital of adventure, to Kampala, the city that never sleeps, to Lake Bunyonyi, the serene Lake surrounded by terraced hills, there’s always something new to do here.
When you fly into the country, you’ll land in Entebbe which is home to Uganda’s main international airport, and so on this particular trip, we decided to use it as a jump off point for exploring some of the islands of Lake Victoria.
On the first evening, while waiting for everyone to land from their various destinations, we decided to swing by 2 Friends Beach Hotel. It’s a really popular hangout spot that’s right on the shores of the lake, a setting that looks like it was taken from the Indian Ocean rather than a lakeside peninsula.
Lounging on a deck chair with a local ice cold Nile Special beer in hand, it’s easy to forget that Uganda is actually landlocked. No emails. No phone calls. Just fishermen on wooden canoes going about fishermen business, and Pied Kingfisher trying to dive into the lake headfirst to yank the fish with their sharp beaks, a scene that’s surprisingly as engrossing as watching the English Premier League.
On weekends, revelers from Kampala flock to this spot to drink and dance on sandy shores, an activity that the capital city is notorious for. The sunsets alone are worth the trip, and I’d suggest going on an evening boat cruise if you’re up for it.
The next day, with everyone having finally arrived, our plan was to head to Brovad Sands Lodge in Ssese Islands. The lodge has their own massive boat dubbed the MV Brovad, so you can call ahead to arrange for pick up and excursions. It’s a spacious sailing boat that can host up to 70 people- and we decided to have a little party on board on the way there. Someone whipped out a bluetooth speaker and started playing old Jose Chameleone tunes. ‘Sina valu valu baby’...the sound floated out onto the deck, where a few people were dancing, past the Ugandan flag which was billowing in the stern, drowning out in the breeze.
The staff passed around samosas and soft drinks in plastic cups- we passed a few people on jet skis which is always a fun idea. You can also catch the public ferry at the Nakiwogo dock in Entebbe, and it takes three hours to sail to Kalangala so this would ideally be a day or overnight trip.
Ssese Islands are an archipelago with 84 islands of varying sizes; some are uninhabited, others have fishing villages, while others yet are private with lush green swanky romantic resorts such as Bovard Sands where honeymooners whisk away to revel in wedded bliss.
The islands were actually so-called because some used to be infested with tsetse flies, but with pristine palm-fringed shores and clear blue water where you’ll spot locals swimming and bathing, those days are long gone and you’d be forgiven for thinking that you’re in Diani.
Rent a bicycle or quad bike and charge full throttle towards the villages, wind whipping past your skin, to meet some locals and tuck into freshly caught Nile perch grilled on an open fire. You can even spot wildlife like vervet monkeys, sitatunga antelopes and rare birds.
We spent a weekend on the sandy shores of Brovad Sands, in the type of private cottage that has a massive bathtub, a small private courtyard and comfortable contemporary room, just a few meters away from a large epic pool overlooking Lake Victoria.
I was woken up by birdsong every morning at dawn, after which I would head down to the beach for a run followed by a cold swim. My favourite thing about the stay was the daily buffets with local dishes like matoke, katogo, luwombo with groundnut sauce and more. This spot is for lovers.
Next, we set sail for Pineapple Bay resort, another lover’s paradise with lakefront cottages in Bulago Island. The owners must have a thing for Pepsi, since its poster was right next to the welcome signage with the resort's name, and there was another big Pepsi wall mural in the bars, but the staff greeted us with pineapple-mint juices, fittingly so.
The lawns are green and meticulously manicured, and the orange buildings stand out in stark contrast. The architecture evokes Swahili-Moroccan influences such as with the high arches, curved niches and makuti-thatched roofs. I checked out the impressive honeymoon suite which came complete with a jacuzzi with a small screen and underwater bluetooth speaker.
There was also the standard heart-shaped towel-art surrounded by petals on the bed. A few different bird species milled about the lawns, indifferent to our presence, as though they were some domesticated pets. Bring a book- this is the place to truly unwind, soak up some sun and get away from it all.
Yet another gem in this archipelago is the remote privately-owned Banda Island. It was started by Kenyan-British man Dominic Symes in the 90s, and after his passing, his friends and family kept it going. Adventure is the name of the game here, with water skiing, wakeboarding, kayaking, fishing, hiking, sports like volleyball and more, including a Laser yacht available for rent.
Evenings can be spent having fresh tilapia around a beach bonfire chatting up other guests about this and that. If you’d like to encounter some chimpanzees, Ngamba island would be your next destination.
