Christmas decorations at the Saddle and Boot restaurant, Ngong Race Course in Nairobi.
Those older Kenyan readers, who must have read novels of Charles Dickens’ novels at school, will likely pick up the allusion to his Ghost of Christmas Past. And, yes, my ghost, like all my other ghost friends, appeared on a Sunday morning when I was alone at home and on my terrace. He was wearing jockey racing silks – green and white shirt and white breeches. There was no chance of mistaking him. I knew him well: Frank Morby, who was the champion jockey here in Kenya in the years across the 1980s and early 1990s. He was the subject of my first article published by the Nation.
‘Heh, Frank’, I said. ‘This is wonderful. I was at the Ngong Racecourse Christmas Day and, as always when I go there, I was thinking about you.’
‘Yes, I was also there on Christmas Day. I like ghosting there occasionally; I still feel attached to the place. I saw you there sitting at the new Saddle and Boot restaurant with two beautiful ladies.’
‘Yes, that was my wife and a good friend of ours.’
‘I wanted to talk with you. Though they wouldn’t have seen or heard me, of course, but they would have wondered who you were talking with.’
For me, this was a wonderful opportunity, because I was about to work on this article that is due to be published on the first race of 2026. It is about the changes that I have seen in the racecourse since I was first visiting it – a time when Frank was riding winners at the racecourse and beating me at golf at the Karen Country Club. Those were the days when the place was thriving: the main grandstand and the no-charge silver ring were always full; as well as the Tote betting, a number of Indian bookmakers were calling the odds; the racing was enjoyably competitive.
‘You must have seen many changes since those days,’ I said to Frank’s ghost.
‘I certainly have,’ he said. ‘Yes, when I was a jockey here, horse racing was popular and fashionable. But some years after I retired things became rather flat. The crowd thinned out. I’m not sure why, but I guess one of the reasons was the way it became possible to bet on the internet; though not all the people who came to the races were punters, so there must be other reasons. But in the last couple of years I see that the crowds are back – many more younger people than there used to be. And the Kenyan jockeys... when I was racing, almost all the jockeys were white. Remember what I told you for that first article – that the young Kenyan jockeys were facing the problem that they hadn’t grown up in a horsey society. But now almost all the jockeys are Kenyans – and they are really doing a great job.’
I reminded Frank’s ghost that the Ngong Racecourse is now much more than a horse-racing track. It has a public golf course, a rugby club, a shooting range and a padel court. Also, it has become a favoured site for events such as the Concours d’Elegance and the Shaggy Dog Show.
The ghost cut in. ‘And, a few weeks ago, that new restaurant opened – the Saddle and Boot, where I saw you on Christmas Day. It looks a fine and dandy place.’
Christmas menu
‘Yes, it is.’ I said. ‘A friend had sent me their Christmas menu. I saw that turkey was on it. For me, no proper Christmas lunch can be without turkey. I also had an amazing starter – smoked salmon with capers, sweet lemon dressing and rocket. The Christmas pudding was unusual – but very good. In fact, I am going back there this afternoon to talk with Alexander Sanders about his plans for the place.’
‘Heh, can I join you? No-one will see me – and I promise to keep quiet.’
‘Sure,’ I said with a chuckle. ‘Karibu!’
And so, an hour or so later, we sat down with Alexander – near his long bar. The ghost must have been envious as I ordered a cold lager. Frank loved his beer – though he never drank the day before a race.
There was one key question I wanted to ask Alexander: how was he planning to survive long at a restaurant site where all his predecessors have failed to do so. It was a question he was well prepared for.
‘Nairobi has many good restaurants,’ he said, ‘but I saw that it doesn’t have a proper gastro pub. That’s what I want this Saddle and Boot to be – a pub with quality food. It means reaching a finer dining level – something we will embrace as time goes on. I don’t mean a lot of fancy stuff. We are starting with the proper pub grub – fish and chips, Scotch eggs, pies, steaks – and building from there.’
The following day, Alexander sent me the regular and extensive menu. True to his words, among the starters are Scotch Eggs, alongside classic Steak Tartare with miso mayo, dehydrated yolk and toast. For mains, there is Fish and Chips, alongside Chicken Boudin with carrot puree, glazed carrots and chicken gravy.
With regard to ambiance, the restaurant is clearly in a horse racing place. The many trophies for the racing programme are on display; there are two red weighing scales for jockeys, as well as many racing pictures on the walls.
However, Alexander is well aware that, for his restaurant to succeed, people need to be there on non-race days. That will happen, of course, if the quality of the food and the ambiance remain attractive. It is a sports bar, too – with huge screens showing sports such as football, tennis and motor racing.
Also, there will be live music; in particular, Alexander, is a keen fan of country and western – as are many Kenyans. So, the Saddle and Boot is a very welcome addition to the range of recreational amenities at the Ngong Racecourse.
As we drove away, Frank’s ghost broke his silence, and there was the same leathery smile on his face that I remember well. ‘I reckon that guy Alexander could be riding a winner there,’ he said.
John Fox is Chairman of iDC Email: johnfoxidc.co.ke
